From beachside to picturesque hillside villages: Where to stay on Spain’s Costa de la Luz

IN Vejer the seminal Casa de Califa in the town’s loveliest square, is a fabulous Moorish building sitting around a charming central patio, where guests take breakfast and dine under candlelight each evening.

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Supreme comfort at Casa de Califa

Next door, its sister Las Palmeras de Califa, also oozes history, but has a fabulous pool to cool off in after a day of sightseeing.

Even better, it has just been given a splendid new renovation, making it one of the most luxurious places to stay in Vejer.

Some ten minutes outside Vejer towards Zahara look out for amazing Cortijo el Indiviso, which is the very epitome of the rural dream, sitting in nearly 20 hectares of stunning countryside, with views to Vejer and far further.


An equestrian estate, time really stands still at this historic cortijo, which counts on a lovely pool for relaxing after a hard day’s sightseeing, as well as a charming patio and fabulously cool and quiet bedrooms.

Recently taken over by former Chelsea club doctor Eva Carniero (a huge animal lover) and partner, businessman Jason de Carteret, it is expected to go through a transition over the next year or so.

Either way, you can still enjoy heading out for horse rides in the nearby countryside, while new hotel managers Cat and Erika will more than look after your every need.

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Village properties at CalifaVejer.

If beaches are more your thing, head to Caños de Meca to laid back Madreselva, set around a central courtyard and with a decent pool for the kids to splash in.

You are just paces from the lovely local beach as well as in the heart of the action, but the rooms remain lovely and quiet.

Also in the heart of Canos de Meca, look out for La Brena, which sits in an amazing spot by famous Castillejos beach, one of the most colourful in Spain.

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Great views at La Brena.

The rooms are incredibly comfortable, while the best have amazing views to the Trafalgar lighthouse and across to Morocco.

A new pool in the garden is the icing on the cake.

Nearby, just a short walk from the Trafalgar lighthouse is evocative Casas Karen, a super chilled retreat, sitting in a wild spot between pinewoods and beach. Its collection of chozas (straw huts) and traditional farmhouses, blends perfectly into the landscape. 

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Beach vibes at Casas Karen.

In Tarifa you have an equally good group of stylish hotels, one of the best being the Hurricane Hotel, right on the beach, as well as the more luxurious Punta Sur across the road, with its fabulous grounds, massive pool and tennis court.

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Hurrican Hotel.

In Zahara you have the excellent Hotel Antonio, sitting on one of Andalucia’s top beaches.

Antonio Hotel
Antonio Hotel right on the beach.

Best of all, it has an amazing restaurant so you don’t even have to leave the grounds, unless you fancy the short walk up to nearby Zahara town.


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