Being both the owner and head chef bodes well for Santiago Lambardi, writes Matt Jones
THERE is a new secret gem in the heart of Fuengirola.
Hierro Casa de Fuegos is an Argentinian joint run by owner and chef Santiago Lambardi, who’S got cuisine coursing through his veins.
On a recent visit we were welcomed by home-made signature cocktails – with and without alcohol – with a typical Argentinian treat of roasted peanuts and chilli honey, the perfect balance to the acidity of my pisco sour.
The ethos of Santiago is simple: Use high quality ingredients, sourced as locally as possible and mixed with good old-fashioned cooking skills.
Take his homemade beef empanadas, served with a wonderful shredded tomato and coriander salsa. They were melt-in-the-mouth delights with not a hint of oil on the plate.
If the homemade bread with lemon zest and black pepper butter was good, the next dish of braised carrots smoked with poached egg and homemade aioli rocked. A veggie’s dream, as was the cauliflower finished on the grill with almonds and fresh oregano.
The sweetbreads, I must admit, were something of a departure to me. While I’m always wary of things like offal and in this case – the neck glands of a cow – they were perfectly cooked and, in the end, hardly touched the sides.
And then, of course, came the steak, it being an Argentinian joint. A stunning well-aged Rib Eye from the celebrated Pampas, which roll west from Buenos Aires.
The yellow fat marbled through the meat showed just how healthily our cow had lived, free range and grass-fed for its entire life.
I like my meat rare, although if you would like to cook it more at your table there is an option of having a hot stone.
Served with eggplant and ginger, Jalapeño peppers and honey, it’s hard to improve this dish.
Finally we tried a special green pasta called Agnolotti, which comes stuffed with pear and goats cheese. Wow.
And then we had a dessert and one to beat all desserts, death by dulce de leche, explained Santiago. Why not we thought to ourselves.
“The best things in life are steak, dulce de leche and Lional Messi,” Santiago insisted. “Oh and all you guiris are more than welcome here! Most people are not like the ones shown on your last front page – we love you all.”
Calle Larga 8, Fuengirola. Málaga
www.hierroparrilla.com